In the past fifteen years, I have made approximately twenty trips to the island of Gasparilla. This white sand haven is a barrier island in Lee county Southwest Florida. If looking for it on a map find Sanibel Island, (near Fort Myers), then move northward, past Captiva, North Captiva and Cayo Costa. It separates the western edge of Charlotte Harbor from the Gulf of Mexico.
The trek leading from my Fort Myers home requires me driving north on US 41 to Port Charlotte, FL in Charlotte County. At State route 776, I turn left and travel eight miles to route 771. I again turn left, taking that for four miles to Gasparilla Road and turn left once again. If it seems we are driving in a circle, we nearly are. There is only one road onto the island and you have to travel into Charlotte County to get back to Lee. We turn left again at the Gasparilla Causeway.
The Gasparilla Bridge Authority collects the tolls. Federal and state governments appropriate no funds to maintain these vital links to the mainland. The bridge is a swing bridge which when opened allows marine traffic to pass through one of two eighty-foot channels on either side of the bridge. In October 2012, tolls were raised to the following:
CASH |
Cars / Pickup Trucks ………………………………………………………………..$6.00 |
Bicycles………………………………………………………………………………$3.00
Motorcycles…………………………………………………………………………….$6.00 |
Commercial Trucks / Buses………………………………………………$5.50 per axle |
Commercial Trailers……………………………………………………….$5.50 per axle |
As you travel look to your left and you’ll see the abandoned railroad bridge; this was once the only land link to the island. The current bridge replaced a ferry service in the 1950’s. When we cross the bridge we still aren’t on Gasparilla Island, this is a tiny island known as North Island. A two-lane bridge connects us to another small island named Cole. The Bridge Authority owns the property on either side of the road and parking anywhere on the causeway is forbidden. One more bridge and we finally reach Gasparilla Island. This portion of the island lies in Charlotte County; in about one mile we will reenter Lee County.
As you enter the unique village of Boca Grande you are seemingly swept back one hundred years. That’s when phosphate was shipped from a port here (remnants of the phosphate docks can be found at the south end of the island). Wealthy northern families came to enjoy the game fishing and established ornate homes to escape the icy winter blast. Large hotels were erected and the out of the way village became an enclave of the elite.
There is no shortage of eateries on the island; all are a little pricey. I recommend Sisters Restaurant that is across a banyan-shaded street from the Gasparilla Inn. Sisters Restaurant serves a very good pizza and great grouper fingers with fries. Down the street the Loose Caboose is located in the old railroad station and displays some interesting artifacts from that era. Again the prices are a little high for the fair offered and the service a little inept but by Boca Grande standards it’s a bargain. While there are many other places to buy a meal, they are cost prohibitive for those traveling with a family. My suggestion is, if you’re day tripping with children, grab an early lunch in Port Charlotte before crossing the causeway.A bicycle path now occupies the old railroad bed and along with the tree-lined streets provides an ideal way to explore this bit of old Florida. Rentals are available at several shops, or bring your own.
Parking is a problem in high season, both for the car and your sandy butt. The State Park provides parking at the range marker light (also known as the beacon) and the lighthouse at the south end of the island. The charge is $3.oo and restrooms, pavilions and picnic tables are adjacent. In the off-season there is little crowding and things are much more relaxed. There is free parking at the end of several streets but this fills up fast.
The greatest attraction on Gasparilla is God-given, the wide white sand beaches. Lighthouse Beach is located on Boca Grande Pass at the south tip of the island. This beautiful beach is great for sunning but not for swimming. Signs warn visitors that the severe current in Boca Grande Pass is too dangerous to be flirted with. The old lighthouse now houses an excellent museum and gift shop. The island story is traced back to the Calussa Indians who once inhabited this area.
Further north the beach near the Range marker Light is my favorite. While you enjoy the view of the gulf, turn around. You won’t find a high-rise or billboard in sight. This is about as close as you can get to “Old Florida”. As at any Florida beach it’s important to use a quality sun block. No matter what your complexion, it can be damaged by the torrid sub-tropical sun.
The Gasparilla Inn is the largest hotel on the island. This Grande Dame has enjoyed a certain amount of notoriety as the holiday destination for members of the Bush family. The Inn operates a golf course and beach club, as well as the Pink Elephant Restaurant.
There are also private homes and cottages available for rental. I suggest you shop the internet to find the appropriate accommodations for your family. The costs tend to reflect the exclusiveness of the island. There are chain hotels in nearby Port Charlotte at more reasonable rates.
Boca Grande offers a charm that is rare in today’s world. Many visitors have been coming here for generations; some of the stately homes are still occupied by the families that built them. Even here some of the storefronts are empty and many of the retailers anxiously await the return of “Season”.